Before the technique of contouring the face was available only to professional makeup artists. We looked at photos of stars in glossy magazines and admired the wonders of modern plastic surgery. But as it turned out, not all celebrities have resorted to plastic surgeons, but the services of a good makeup artist doesn't refuse anybody. The more that just over an hour, without pain and rehabilitation, you can get high cheekbones, chiseled nose, and full lips.
Thanks to glossy magazines and videoblogs contouring has become accessible to everyone. A little bit of practice, patience, brushes and cosmetics – and even a beginner can master the magic of makeup. Let us consider what of contouring, what it is and how to do it yourself.
What is the contouring
Contouring or sculpturing is a technique for depositing two different shades to give a person relief, as well as adjust its features. Everything here works the same way as in the fine arts: what you need to do more or to put on the first plan, make a lighter, remote and reduce by darkening.
In order to master this technique, you have to learn your face. To determine what form and what features require a small correction, as contouring round face is different from contouring triangular or elongated. You will also need products for sculpting, they can be dry or cream, choose them based on skin type and desired result. And of course, as a real artist, you need tools – brushes and sponges that need to make high-quality contouring. Step by step guide that allows you to master the technique of makeup will be presented below.
How to prepare your face
Before you apply makeup, you need to properly prepare your skin: cleanse and moisturize. If the skin is very dry and dehydrated, then you can apply moisturizing mask, otherwise the Foundation will emphasize the flakes and fine wrinkles. If the dermis is oily, then after a cleansing ritual you need to apply a matte moisturizer. So the makeup does not "float" and be careful and persistent.
If the skin texture is uneven, there are large pores or marks from acne, you can apply a primer or makeup base. This tool smooths the surface, allowing tonal cream to go smoothly, without stains, and increases durability.
Apply Foundation all over the face. This can be done using fingers, brush or beauty blender. The latter will make the coating thin and light, the first two methods will give a more dense layer. To problem area – redness, dark circles under the eyes, acne you need to apply concealer or corrector.
After applying Foundation, face loses volume, it looks flat and unnatural. So even if you do not want to "sculpted" face, a little bit of bronzer under the cheekbones, under the brow highlighter and blush on the "apples" of the cheeks do not hurt. So the skin will have a fresh well-rested look and natural contour.
What makeup for contouring the face? On the basis of skin type, select appropriate products. Usually it is either dry texture (bronzer, dry military) or creamy sticks and special tools for "sculpturing", available in several shades for each color type.
Dry the texture is more lightweight, they give a natural effect, suitable for daily wearing. But it is important not to be mistaken with a choice of shades. Bronzer for darkening should be darker than your skin tone not more than one and a half tones. Otherwise you risk to get a rough sharp features of the face or just the dark spots and stripes. Dark bronzini can only be used by the winner of the dark nature of the skin. Undertone tools for contouring should be gray, like natural shade, but not orange or brick. Highlighter can be with cool (silver) or warm (Golden) undertone. He must blend in with the natural color of the skin and General complexion. If you are the owner of the so-called light porcelain skin, you are perfect highlighter with silver shimmer particles, and if it is dark olive with a gold or bronze.
Dry contouring is performed by special products, usually assembled into palettes of two or more shades. In texture, they resemble compact powder or dry blush.
For dry contouring is suitable:
- Palette Sculpting Kit from Make Up For Ever. It is represented by only two shades, it is very easy to do contouring. For beginners, this palette is ideal. The texture is very light, due to which the product blends easily, leaving no streaks and dark spots.
- Contour Kit from Smashbox. The palette contains three shades and a comfortable angled brush, which is very easy to do contouring. Step by step instructions on applying shades attached, it is very simple to understand how to use each color to adjust the facial features.
- Master Sculpt by Maybelline. The palette contains two shades – a highlighter and bronzer in a natural shade and a flat brush for contouring the face.
Correction cream texture is more dense and is appropriate mostly for formal events or photo shoots. For everyday wear this makeup too bright and sharp. Correctors can be assembled in a palette of multiple shades or be in the form of sticks. Funds from the sticks can be applied directly on the skin of the the case makeup from the palette easier to apply with brushes.
- Make-Up Atelier Paris. Correctors palette contains six shades with a dense coverage. This tool is ideal for photo shoots and videos.
- Kit for contouring the face Concealer palettes from MAC. Professional palette contains six shades for face correction. All colors can be mixed together to obtain a perfect matching shade. For more durability, at the end of makeup, it is recommended to apply the powder.
- Master Contour V-Shape Contouring Duo from Maybelline. Despite the creamy texture, this stick has a light coverage. The tool is well shaded and has natural shades ideal to do contouring. For beginners the best option, because it is not difficult to apply and has good shade product.
Brushes for contouring
What do I need for contouring the face in addition to cosmetics? Of course, tools – brush for applying and blending. What kind of brushes are suitable for contouring?
- Kabuki. This round, tightly Packed brush with a short thick pile. Perfect for applying dry blush and brasero.
- Brush with bevelled cut. Suitable for darkening the subculus, wings and back of the nose. It is convenient both to apply and to shade cosmetic means.
- Beauty-blender. This sponge has long been a leader among all the tools for shading correctors, Foundation, broselow and other means. It can help you perfectly blend of dark and light correctors, without spots, streaks, and sharp borders.
Now a little about how to properly contour the face using the already described cosmetics. Let's consider several variants of sculpting different facial ovals, as well as the nose and lips.
The contouring round face
Contouring a round face is to make it more elongated oval, and cheekbones more defined. To do this, apply the dark concealer on the sides of the lower jaw, to visually narrow the face, under the cheekbones, to make them more clear, and line on the side of his forehead. Need a highlighter to "highlight" the middle of the chin, so he stretches a little, then apply it to the top of the cheekbones to lift them and in the middle of the forehead.
If you need to correct your double chin, apply and thoroughly blend bronzer in the neck.
Contouring of a square face
A square shaped face lacks the smooth lines. To smooth sharp angles of the lower jaw, you need to apply dark powder or concealer on the sides of the chin. Using a brush for contouring the face, it is necessary to emphasize the cheekbones large enough triangles, it is also important to darken and make more smooth the side of the forehead. Light a flare put in the center of the chin and forehead, the cheeks are "illuminated" by a long line from the temple to the nose.
Contouring a triangular face
Triangular face has a narrow chin that visually need to do a little more to balance with the line of the forehead. To do this, apply light concealer on the sides of the mandible, and mid chin need to apply a little dark corrector to smooth its "sharpness". The forehead must do it now, so dazzle his side. Put the shadow on podsumowa space to give the person relief.
Contouring an elongated face
Contouring the face having an elongated shape, requires a darkening of the chin and lateral parts of the lower jaw and upper part of forehead. Bright accents set on the highest point of the cheeks and Central forehead.
Contouring of the nose
To correct the nose shape using makeup a snap. To make the back of the nose already, you need to conduct two parallel lines dark concealer on the sides of the nose, connecting them in a semicircle at the tip. Center backs need to lay a thin line corrector light color. If you have applied the cream correctors, then blend the border with the help of the beauty blender, but if dry, then hammer the product with a Kabuki brush.
To adjust the width of the nose, apply a dark bronzing powder or a corrector to the wings.
Putting a light flare, a little short of the tip of the nose, you can adjust its length.
To give the lips volume, apply the check mark on the upper lip of light a highlighter. The circuit will be clearer if we trace lips with a light concealer (don't forget to carefully shade border). Blik raised corrector light color in the center, visually increase the lips. And on top you can apply a light lipstick and a bit of glitter in the middle.
Making a sculpture, do not forget that its goal is to slightly adjust the facial features, not completely change it. Cosmetics to help us look fresher, younger, and not have to work against us. It should be noted that the fashion for pronounced contouring of the passes, today the trend is natural makeup that accentuates the natural beauty of the face and only slightly correcting its shortcomings.